Creme de la (Organic, Locally Sourced) Creme: Best of the California Bike Tour, Part 3
Welcome back to the belated third edition of Sylva and Tyler’s bike-scapade down the Northern California Coast. Without further ado, join us in Gualala State Park, where none of us got any sleep. Our tent was situated a water bottle’s throw from the 15-minute drop off zone for the rest of the walk up sites,…
Welcome back to the belated third edition of Sylva and Tyler’s bike-scapade down the Northern California Coast. Without further ado, join us in Gualala State Park, where none of us got any sleep. Our tent was situated a water bottle’s throw from the 15-minute drop off zone for the rest of the walk up sites, all conveniently located behind our tent.
Throughout Friday night, cars bopped in and out, slamming doors, shuffling camping gear up the well-worn path to the walk-in sites and exceeding the 15-minute drop off period. The spirited rustling of the world’s largest tarp at the site behind us defeated even my well-placed earplugs. Around midnight, a child started wailing in a site further down as more weekend warriors piled in. It was our first reminder that we were now within San Francisco’s reach.
Day 10: Gualala State Park – Salt Point State Park
21 miles, 1200′ climbing
Lighthearted singing while packing up camp resulted in the formation of “The Almond Butt Quartet,” which we etched into the food storage shelves at camp 🙂
First stop before hitting the road: the nearby visitor center (and free wifi) to check the weather. Outside the visitor center was a cluster of serges, or ceremonial hitching posts traditionally carved and placed in front of houses in the Sakha Republic in Siberia. Siberians and Russians occupied the Sonoma area from 1812-1842.
A short, sunny ride today was made even easier by a monster tailwind which literally blew us south.
We stopped at Salt Point State Park and had the hike/bike site completely to ourselves. After getting settled, we walked across the street and down a short trail to the sea.
A great blue heron joined us to watch the churning sea.
Sunset at Salt Point.
I became — as usual — completely engrossed watching the waves siege the rocks, feeling the salt spray even high up on the rocks. I totally meant to journal, but I spent an hour zoning out and/or trying to capture the rough seas on “film:”
Day 11: Salt Point State Park – Bodega Dunes State Park (in Bodega Bay, CA)
37 miles, 2840′ climbing
Morning arrived calm as a stoned hippy. Today’s ride would be up and down and the first up looked like a moonscape.
Despite its proximity to the Bay Area, we found this area of the coast surprisingly wild and uninhabited.
After lots more climbing and a baller descent, we took a break at Cafe Aquatica in Jenner. Suddenly we were in civilization again. For some, the Sunday exodus back to the Bay had started. Others were out enjoying the sunshine like us.
Awesomely strong espresso power!!!
A dramatic shoreline accompanied us to Bodega Bay — along with a constant stream of cars heading back to the Bay Area.
Classic T & S.
We set up camp at the hike/bike site at Bodega Dunes State Park, ran into town for supplies then headed to the beach with our dinner.
A group of chill, hippy types was hanging at the boardwalk when we rolled up — including Clay in the Maker’s Hands and his dog, Bat Boy. Guess his name fits 🙂
Jam sesh on the beach with Clay in the Maker’s Hands, Chris, Phillip, Rosie, Haley and her boyfriend Mike.
More jam sesh on the beach.
We hung out all the way through a glorious sunset, just enjoying the moment with a truly chill, open-minded group of folks, some living in different ways than most of us do (Clay lives in a bus, Chris lives on his bike).
Clay and Chris having a late night toke 😉 Afterwards, we saw the brightest shooting star imaginable!
Day 12: Bodega Dunes State Park – Point Reyes National Seashore hostel
41 miles, 3175′ climbing
Sometime in the evening, we were joined by a mysterious entity with a backpacking pack, a longboard and a bivy that looked more like a bodybag. He didn’t wake up until after we ate breakfast at camp, and then didn’t say a word. It takes all kinds 🙂
More sunshine on the short but brutal shortcut we took to Valley Forge (where we got Tyler a “second breakfast” of ice cream and linguica burrito!). I, of course, got an espresso at a nearby cafe.
Sometime after we reached the quaint town of Tomales, we hooked up with Tomales Bay and a stout headwind.
After a lengthy re-supply/lunch break in touristy but cool Point Reyes Station, we had another lengthy climb up to the hostel in Point Reyes National Seashore.
Reaching the hostel in late afternoon.
Taking over the room, like we usually do. Afterwards, we made fresh pasta in the spacious private kitchen.
Day 13: Rest day at Point Reyes National Seashore
6 miles, to the beach and back
Tyler firing up the stove in the kitchen for some serious french toast and bacon!
Breakfast on the patio!
We found a trail (more or less a closed service road to the campground at the beach) that allowed bikes. Supplies in tow (cider), we headed out. This giant Eucalyptus tree stood just off the beach.
The beach.
Scaring birds at the beach.
Trying to tidepool at the beach (but alas, the waves were too rowdy).
Watching Godwits endlessly dodge waves and then scurry back in to eat who knows what in the sand.
We startled a lone deer as we made our way back up to the hostel. We also saw a HUGE, healthy coyote that was not intimidated in the least by Tyler, as its growling displayed.
Evening found us in the kitchen again making dinner — but this time, it was far from just us. Maryanne, Brandi, Jamila and their three little girls sprawled out all over the kitchen; coloring books, Barbies and dress up clothes covered the remaining floor space. But we didn’t care: they were incredibly friendly and won us over easily with goat cheese, crackers, salad, brownies, pumpkin bread and most importantly, wine!
Day 14: Point Reyes National Seashore – Marin Headlands Hostel
42 miles, 3780′ climbing
A right turn out of the hostel and here we were, at a delightful 17 % grade thigh buster.
After much up and down, we passed through the tiny town of Olena and then the road flattened completely at Bolinas Bay.
Is that debris? Nope, it’s a whole fleet of seals enjoying the low, warm waters of the Bay at low tide. A nearby sign said not to disturb the “pupping area.” Hehe.
After Bolinas Bay, we stopped for a picnic lunch in Stinson Beach. Afterwards, you guessed it: another climb!
After a monster descent, we made a right turn towards San Fran!
I guess a lot of people live around here…
The day finished with a mellow section of dirt road on a trail system in the Marin Headlands. At the start, an army of youths in short shorts bounced around and stretched, getting ready for a track meet. At the end, we got our first glimpse of San Fran (Twin Peaks, in particular).
Looking out the doorway in the sprawling Marin Headlands hostel, which was once a military fort.
Kickin back in our private room!
Next up: the finale! Or you could call it the finally… cause we ACTUALLY get to San Fran. Sometimes I think this blog took longer than the actual trip…
Until next time!
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Sylva Florence 
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