Yes, it’s been a coon’s age since I aligned proverbial pen and page to form an article. Sorry for the dry spell, but you see, I’ve been busy doin’ my thang… first, a stimulating new summer gig as lead caterer for Bonnie Q BBQ… then a last-minute working vacay to Italy… then a two-week-and-change road…
Just another stupid, one of a kind, octagonal UNESCO World Heritage Site 13th century castle/citadel built on a hill… in Castel del Monte Italia… sigh…
Yes, it’s been a coon’s age since I aligned proverbial pen and page to form an article. Sorry for the dry spell, but you see, I’ve been busy doin’ my thang… first, a stimulating new summer gig as lead caterer for Bonnie Q BBQ… then a last-minute working vacay to Italy… then a two-week-and-change road trip to California, Oregon and Washington… and now…
Now — one thing at a time as they say. It all started with an email from Monica — the manager and co-owner of ExperiencePlus!. Together with her sister Maria Elena (called M.E. by those who know her), Monica runs the operations in Italy while M.E. keeps the Fort Collins contingency under control. After working for Monica and living in Italy in 2009 for most of the year and returning almost every successive fall like stray but lovable animals, we were the perfect duo to call up in a sottaceto (that’s “pickle” in Italian). Within a week, we’d seen the email, answered exuberantly, received plane tickets, wrapped up our summer jobs, finished moving out of our apartment into our new rental house and — on September 29 — hopped on a jet plane.
The fabulous crew at ExperiencePlus!, plugging away in an old pig barn south of Bologna long ago converted into offices, mechanic’s shop and bicycle warehouse, endured their busiest season yet. By late September, they were stretched thinner than a piece of prosciutto across several slices of melon. And that’s exactly where we stepped in:
But first, some gelato affogato (drowned) in espresso. It’s Italy; no reason to hurry things…
We arrived in Bologna late the next afternoon, jet-lagged but ecstatic. Familiar faces neared, blurred into warm Italian greetings: one kiss lightly on each cheek. The plum orchard on the south side of the farm had been harvested; the remaining plump, juicy fruits dropped lazily from mosquito-soaked trees. Rick — Monica and M.E.’s dad — talked of (and later followed through on) homemade plum tarts. In the kitchen, the old espresso machine (broken, but officially allowed to be coaxed into much-anticipated use by yours truly) sputtered into existence.
And we’d need its help: the next morning, another (working) adventure began!
Frankfurt Airport (at the automatic coffee station): Anyone up for a cup?
The Farm (between Faenza and Forli): Freccia, the older of the two farm kitties (the other being Arco), takes a nap.
Pienza, Italia: After picking up 8 clients from Knoxville, Tennessee at Bologna Airport, Tyler and I shuttle them to their posh villa in Tuscany. One of their tandems needs a part so we have to stay the night and wait on its arrival. Oh, darn.
Pienza, Italia: A lovely morning for a walk.
Monticchiello, Italia: Goofing off in the sunshine in the tiny town above our home for the night — Podere Rigopeschi.
Monticchiello, Italia: Tyler enjoying the view from outside the window at Podere Rigopeschi. The previous night — tired and delerious — we couldn’t find the place to save our non-bilingual souls. I couldn’t understand the owner — Carla — very well, so in the end she set out in her Panda car to find us and guide us in. Yay Carla!
Vieste, Italia: After our work excursion to Tuscany, we headed south to the spur on Italy’s boot. We met up with the Expedition (this year a 30-day ride from Innsbruck, Austria to the tip of the boot) so Tyler could tune some bikes.
Near Vieste, Italia: Driving south with the majestic Adriatic Sea to guide us.
Vieste, Italia: It might be warm down South, but the wind that blows through the streets at night carries a chill. Luckily, the trattoria where we ate like kings (seafood stew and fresh orecchiete pasta) had a solution.
Vieste, Italia: Tyler helps me warm up for another winter at Der Fondue Chessel (but I let him wear the dirndl this time).
Per usual — with the help of our friends at ExperiencePlus! — we procured a couple of bikes to accompany us to Puglia. After finishing up in Vieste, we took off into the warm air for a few days of two-wheeled adventure…
Near Trani, Italia: In Trani, we met up with tour leaders Silvia, Enrico and Cristina at the start of their Puglia tour. The next morning, we rode with the group through a sea of olive trees.
Castel del Monte, Italia: Remember that silly old castle at the top of this blog? It also has a restaurant. Tyler, Cristina and Enrico are probably discussing what to order…
Castel del Monte, Italia: Shortly thereafter, we decide on red wine, fresh pasta with salted ricotta and roasted mutton tagliata. To start, a plate of fresh figs, prosciutto and arugula.
Matera, Italia: We arrived late the first night in the fascinating town of Matera in the province of Basilicata, famous for its limestone caves (or sassi) that were inhabited by around 25,000 people until the 1950s!
Matera, italia: I couldn’t resist an early morning walk around Matera, where I deliberately got lost on its twisted streets.
Matera, Italia: A house I will someday own.
Matera, Italia: Looking over the city’s edge into the deep gorge (“la Gravina”) and the river below.
Matera, Italia: Just after I turned around, I snapped a picture looking back from where I’d come. The newer part of town — built atop still existing sassi, some abandoned, some remodeled — is near the tower.
Matera, Italia: Tyler getting ready to hydrate as we leave Matera in the already warm morning.
Matera, Italia: Climbing out of the old part of town.
Somewhere in Puglia: Or maybe it’s Iowa? Unlike the much of Italia, the roads here are so flat a biker can fall asleep on their… zzzzz….
Noci, Italia: The remnants of a festival line the centro as we roll through.
Near Alberobello, Italia: Things got interesting in the afternoon in a landscape bisected by painstakingly created stone walls and ancient conical dwellings called trulli.
Near Alberobello, Italia: Checking out some trulli, a common pastime towards the latter part of the ride.
Near Alberobello, Italia: Never pass up a dirt road!
Alberobello, Italia: Just outside of the touristy Alberobello, we hole up in our very own renovated trullo. Space is precious, as illustrated by the juxtapostion of sink and shower.
Alberobello, Italia: The front porch.
Monopoli, Italia: On our third and final day, we cruise towards the sea and our seven hour train ride. Oh and an olive grove planted by the Romans. The freaking Romans, people!
That’s all folks! Pardon any errors because I’m about to finish my glass of wine here in the United Lounge in Los Angeles and board another plane…
Sylva Florence 
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